On Marius Kociejowski’s The Quantum of Happiness

By David Hackbridge Johnson



                                    

Man and wife walk towards a distant shore.  But how distant, or rather how close, is it?  There are cliffs somewhere to avoid, but where exactly is the lip hanging over oblivion?  A mist descends and they lose sight of each other, becoming pale ghosts indistinguishable from low clouds.  Only by groping towards invisible compass points do they catch sight of each other – their ‘blue-grey silhouettes’[1] becoming at last reassuringly corporeal.  The man and wife happy to catch sight of each other are Marius and Bobbie Kociejowski.  This episode which I have paraphrased from the former’s book, The Quantum of Happiness, is used as a metaphor for the obfuscation of entire histories, coming as it does after a brief history of the remote Caithness coastal village of Balbea, a village cleared of its population with gleeful malice by the factors of landowners in the 19th century.  The disappearance and emergence from mist might be a useful metaphor for Kociejowski’s book, since he seeks to explore the nature of the Scottish islands of Lewis and South Uist, not exactly as history, not as any kind of reliable travelogue, but more as a search for the tentative locations of the soul of the land and its people.  The concept of the soul is hardly likely to be pinned down easily, and so it proves as Kociejowski surveys the islands in a kind of kaleidoscope of flora, fauna, poetry, waves, almost forgotten language, and the singing of the psalms on the sea in boats.  All the qualities of Kociejowski’s previous books are present: his gentle rather than insistent presence, his quasi-innocence abroad stumbling through mists he penetrates almost by accident, his deep interest in the paradox of remote voices that don't regard themselves as remote – London being indescribably remote to Hebrideans.  Above all it is Kociejowski’s ability to listen that gives generous space to the people he meets both through the pages of landscape and history, and through the person sitting opposite him in croft or on a beach looking out to formations of waves that the native understands and the writer seeks to transcribe with a pen gradually coming to terms with the beauty and peril of water.  You can’t take a boat from Caithness to Lewis – you have to go from Ullapool, a port in Ross and Cromarty.  The dustwrapper of Kociejowski’s book shows a little rowing boat coming to shore amid swirling waves – will it make it?

 

Reviewing a book such as this is no easy matter since Kociejowski does not breakdown his arena of action into chronologies or ruthlessly demarcated subject matter, rather it is that individual strands are woven together in the manner of tartan cloth, the striking yellow and bold black of MacLeod – a prominent Hebridean clan, or the muted greys and blues of South Uist, with perhaps a dozen other subtle shades implicated by thread, movement and shadow.  In this way Kociejowski weaves together each section of the book so that it might show a given element through its associated threads.  Storytellers – he meets many – sometimes cover similar ground but at a distance of several chapters.  In addition to animating colourful historical figures, folk singers, craftspeople, and sailors, Kociejowski makes words matter – he pursues meaning to the roots as if making a time machine out of syllables in order to get back to a primordial time where the souls of words are born.  The book begins with an etymological discourse on owls, yet one infused with poetic imaginings.  Similarly with apples – he surrounds them with tales and associations derived from both meaning and mythology.  Later swans appear in South Uist, only to be mauled by sea eagles.  This makes Kociejowski’s book sound more fanciful than it is, for in addition to the complex subtleties of mythology, it is full of rollicking good tales, unbelievable incidents, illuminating spirituality and low down cruelty. 

 

Kociejowski has been particularly successful in responding to music in a way that is sensitive to both structure and feeling without having recourse to overwrought technical language.  He feels music like one who might write it.  Sometimes he is forced to confront the attempted erasure of music by overzealous priests.[2]  This distrust towards communal entertainment in music and dancing is best symbolized by the comforting communal fire placed in the centre of the floor that existed for uncountable years before the coming of religion which replaced it with the fire of damnation on strict Calvinist lines – the warmth of togetherness replaced with the isolation of a burning personal hell.  As the Gaelic poet from Lewis, Derick Thomson says, ‘replacing the fire in the centre of the floor, which is a social fire, with religious hellfire.’[3]   Kociejowski’s description of psalm singing is both technical and spiritual, but he moves quickly to a comparison between a particular style of singing to the natural world within which it has its expression – ‘the correlation between the swelling and subsiding of Gaelic psalm singing, the natural sounds of the island and of what the island is made.’[4]  Not everyone is captivated by Gaelic psalm singing, so it is generous of Kociejowski to include a rather splendid piece of acidic criticism from one Elizabeth Grant who describes ‘serious severe screaming’ that causes dogs and babies to bark and cry.[5]  From the baffled ears of Elizabeth Grant, Kociejowski move to the more redemptive view of Joseph Mainzer, a German-born singing teacher and coal miner, who after several run-ins with the authorities due to the subversive nature of his work, ended up in Edinburgh where he became besotted with all things Scottish, writing his praiseworthy tome, The Gaelic Psalm Tunes of Ross-shire, and the neighbouring counties, in 1844.  Like an outsider who can never quite get inside, Mainzer emphasizes the strangeness, ‘the secret and mysterious influences’ that the music held for him.[6]  Such was the interconnectedness between singing, church, and the sea, that services would sometimes begin on the boats that took parishioners from home to church. It is not hard to imagine a living breathing link between the multifarious movement of waves under the boat and the heterophonic singing that buoys it on its way to shore.  Kociejowski puts it in this way: ‘As they made their way in those boats, singing psalms, the sonic properties created in nature’s amphitheatre were such that the sound they made could be heard for miles.’[7]

 

At some point the singing in boats stopped.  Something essential becomes an essence, a concentrated remnant of something become inert, preserved in the aspic of nostalgia.  Yet in a remarkable resuscitation, psalm singing has returned to the islands by means of the Psalm Boat Project.  Waves of voices over waves of the sea once more echo through the air.  An unwound thread is wound again to make it strong.  There are arguments to be had here about whether something that is rejuvenated as a project can really reach a past when its activities were taken as a given.  Has the thread actually broken and is now tied together with a knot that could slip at any moment?  Such cultural reclamations are always on a knife-edge – if interest flags or funding is not forthcoming, the project sinks beneath the waves.  But if the soul of an island is important, a boat might be its receptacle, as suggested at by sailor and artist, Ian Stephen.[8] 

 

Much of the success of The Quantum of Happiness depends on the quality of the stories Kociejowski is able to extract from those he meets on the islands, as well as his asides and meditations which act as forms of continuity.  The book must contain well over a hundred stories, some of them are told from different perspectives in a kind of Cubist multi-narrative, others require complex genealogies to fix individual tales within a continuum of genes.  There are many tales of a spiritual nature barely touched by organised religion – indeed there is often an uneasy relationship between Calvinistic or Catholic worship, and pre-Christian elements featuring spirits, benign or malicious, and the ever-present hovering of the Evil Eye, this last entity recalling passages from The Dream Hunters of Corsica by Dorothy Carrington. 

 

Any outsider seeking a temporary entry visa to a culture alien to them is at the mercy of their hosts, and Hebrideans prove mightily generous in this regard.  There is a curious incident where a rather one-sided flyting occurs – an episode with renowned author and activist, Alastair McIntosh, presented as a marvellously free-wheeling burlesque.   Another host prefers the sound of the television turned up full volume to the continuation of a potentially interesting anthropological discussion with the deafened visitor.  A particular phenomenon much noted by Kociejowski, is the way in which certain storytellers, in recalling events from as many as 200 years ago, tell of them in a manner that suggests that the story only ended a few weeks ago, or might even still be going on in the next room.  There is a sense in which history is like a concertina with the decades being telescoped so that generations far apart rub together within the same stone walls and with the same flames flickering in the hearth.  This conjugation of past and present is no more starkly demonstrated by the discovery of skeletons buried under the floors of houses dating back to the Bronze Age.  Modern burial customs put the dead far from us, but when did this happen, when did the custom of keeping the bones of the loved ones close by, end?

    

Lest it be thought that the people of the islands can be neatly captured in hagiographies, there are a fair share of villains: a nineteenth century mass murderer, Mac an t-Srònaich, who may have been merely a nuisance rather like the legendary London-based Spring-heeled Jack, ghastly factors who took a delight in driving crofters from tiny farmsteads, and the loathed Ferguson family, members of whom were quite happy to literally take the food out of the mouths of their underlings, yet from whose stem sprang two sisters who proved vital to the folk song collector Margaret Fay Shaw, who lived with them for several years, mining their vocal chords for waulking songs and other folk material.[9]  Gems hidden among the dreadful. 

 

As well as all else suggested by the book, Kociejowski  conjures a poetic landscape through descriptions of landscape and mankind’s moulding of it, through the animals that populate it with their unknowable spirits, and being a poet himself, by the spells of poets.  He frequently draws upon important Hebridean poets such as Sorley MacLean from Skye, and Iain Crichton Smith and Derick Thomson, whose early lives were spent on Lewis, but whose later trajectories led them away from a culture that they kept alive by indelible memories.  Perhaps like James Joyce and D. H. Lawrence, they gained additional perspectives from a distance that they might not have had with the island under their noses – three Gaelic poets thrown into the central melting pots of Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen, where Lowland language predominated, but against which they were able to prevail, in poetry at least if not in daily conversation.  Kociejowski’s conversations with folk singer Mary Smith (Màiri Nic a' Ghobhainn), offer the most telling example of how the core of a language survives in a person far from home and living in a culture where not one other person speaks Gaelic.  To paraphrase from Smith: a Gaelic speaker leaves the Isle of Lewis for America, marries and has children.  He never speaks Gaelic in America since there is no one else there who can, but after becoming ill he can't remember any English and his family haven't a clue what he is saying.  The man dies speaking Gaelic, the bedrock of his articulation is the last thing that survives of him, and the intervening tongue is erased.[10]  

 

Songs not only help to fix a language but also help to fix historical events not otherwise recorded in textbooks or contemporaneous newspaper reports – tales of healing and cursing, micro-histories culled from the dire totality of The Clearances, farmland falling fallow due to the lack of an heir.  The stories are an amalgam of fact and folklore – something as unlikely as a curse that sends hapless daughters flapping their arms or squawking like seagulls, can have its space in a real history of conflict between families.  The history preserved in the contours of songs is not of the type amenable to hard and fast evidence, rather there is a relationship between song, story and history in the manner of musical variations on a theme.  The intricacies of the supposedly simple interactions between two antagonists can become a branching narrative with twigs and leaves heading out in all directions, where the wind takes them to the next recipient in the manner of Chinese whispers.  In this type of context verisimilitude is at the mercy of prevailing currents.  Kociejowski seeks to follow as many as he can. 

 

What happens when stories remain untold is related in the chapter called ‘The White Road’ wherein is the tantalizing history of Kociejowski’s attempt to meet the eccentric alternative archaeologist Margaret Curtis, who over many years developed theories about the Calanais standing stones on Lewis as part of a sacred landscape charting the progress of the moon.  Kociejowski was desperate to arrange a meeting with this legendary personage.  A phone call prior to Kociejowski’s traveling to Lewis set up the possibility of a meeting and an exchange of cash for a tour of the stones.  Arriving on the island, Kociejowski’s attempts to contact Curtis fall on stony ground, so to speak.  It is only later that Kociejowski learns that she has died, and with her, the planned but never-executed grand work on the astronomical significance of the stone works.  There is a desperation here in Kociejowski’s attempts to capture off-kilter knowledge before it is lost forever.  I am reminded of similar attempts I made with the conductor Jonathan Butcher to track down the musical compositions of Dr David C. F. Wright, whose work list ran into the 120s, yet whose apparent fervour for rancorous dealings with his neighbours had left him totally isolated in his flat on the Isle of Wight, so isolated that his death went unnoticed for days and the landlord instructed refuse collectors to clear the flat before anyone had any chance to examine its contents.  Dr Wright's entire oeuvre was sent on a barge to the mainland to be pulped.  Similarly I find myself coming up against escaped poems, disappeared with the death of my dear friend Richard MacDonald – he kept them all on his mobile phone, probably washed away by the sea upon whose shoreline he suffered his fatal accident.  Do send me your poems, I urged, only a few months before during our last conversation.  The circumstances of Margaret Curtis’ life forbade collaboration due to her renowned eccentricity, a word that eventually became a euphemism for the insanitary conditions in which she lived.  How many others have taken their work with them in this way?  One thinks of the Irish quarter-tone singer, Maud MacCarthy, whose husband John Foulds died in India and whose compositions she loaded up on a flat-bottomed skiff to be sent down the Ganges in the hope that they would make it back to England.  They were never seen again.  Kociejowski mourns the loss of Curtis’ strange scholarship, a scholarship more to do with learning from landscape than from books.  The stones themselves in Kociejowski’s words, ‘have, for the moment, gone back to the grey business of being stones, she who animated them gone.’[11]  If Kociejowski is a collector of people and cultures on the cusp of disappearance, Margaret Curtis is one that got away.

 

Part of Kociejowski’s purpose, and this is true of almost all his books, especially those on Damascus – the subsequent history of which city has erased virtually everything Kociejowski knew, including the friends he made there – is to catch cultures not as picture postcard snapshots, but as a long view with past and future fanning out from a central viewpoint that gathers to itself the non-touristic, the hidden, the way of treating a certain cloth, a way of singing ancient songs.  Kociejowski wants to get behind the boon and bane of modern technology – virtually everything about The Quantum of Happiness relates to ways of life that are essentially pre-electronic.  Pastoralism, crofting, fishing, boat-making, are all still present on the islands and are simultaneously contemporary and ancient.  But Kociejowski is careful not to tip over into idealism, into spurious desires for impossible returns to an unreachable past.  The world moves on like an agonizing glacier, but it leaves standing proud those erratics that moved with it but were not subsumed into bedrock – these are the standing stones of a culture that clings to its sense of being and soul.

 

There is a chapter on the significant stone works on the Isle of Lewis made by Will Maclean.  Although clearly referencing the architectural styles of crofts and cairns, these monuments are not follies in the 18th century sense, but are a combination of local materials with a sense of the commemorative.  Some recall the struggles of crofters thrown off their land as a result of The Clearances, as landowners switched from managing their land in small parcels to vacating them either for sheep farming or for the destruction of game by the idle rich.  Looking at Kociejowski’s photographs it is possible to get a flavour of the impressive scale and import of Maclean’s work.  Moving to the artist’s retrospective in Edinburgh, I was particularly attracted to Kociejowski’s description of a box sculpture consisting of a man’s face with butterflies emerging from his mouth.  There then follows a disquisition on the butterfly for whom the Greeks had the word psyche, or soul.  I can't help offering an anecdote of my own.  When my first wife spent the best part of six months in a side room of St George's Hospital, Tooting, her life on a knife-edge, she liked to tell me that when she woke up she always looked over to the window where she saw a butterfly perched silently and unmoving.  It gave her courage to continue to believe that she might live – a little winged talisman.  When she first mentioned this I was somewhat curious, thinking perhaps she was hallucinating because of the morphine she was being given.  I walked over to the window to discover that it was a butterfly-shaped lick of paint left over from careless decoration of the window sill.  I spent months not telling my wife that it was a lick of paint.  To both of us it became the butterfly, it was like her soul waiting on the threshold, not knowing whether to re-enter her or fly away.  The site of this psychodrama or ‘psychedrama’ has been swept away with the new developments at the hospital but in my mind's eye, and it is now 22 years since my wife's death, I see the butterfly still, hovering between life and death.

 

No doubt aware of the anthropologist’s curse and the risk of extraction without benefit, Kociejowski, as an acknowledged outsider, keeps a light hand on the tiller, taking navigation from his interviewees, rather than pushing them carelessly into uncharted waters.  He reserves commentary on his conversations for telling asides rather than grand conclusions based on preconceived narratives.  This keeps the book full of surprises, as if a traveller were without maps coming across historical sites of memory with a certain innocence intact.  Innocence is not naivety; Kociejowski is too intelligent a writer to take everything at face value since his own mind is too probing to be switched off.  Although the culture he writes about is clinging to the stones and the moss for survival, he realises that the people are too obdurate to be romanticized – as he says, if you were to dare romanticize them, ‘they would laugh in our faces.’[12]

 

The islanders have been welcoming to Marius Kociejowski.  Some have trod the path of telling too much, or not enough, wanting to tell and then not wanting to tell.  But most have given generously.  All cultures have their secrets, meaning that there will be lacunae in Lewis, South Uist, or Hammersmith and Tooting for that matter.  We have the book in hand, and although the tapestry of a culture can never be completed, what we have here is a remarkable garment in prose that is receptive, perceptive, and respectful to a remarkable island culture.  It is a culture not remote to those that live within it, but will appear remote to those outside.  Marius Kociejowski brings this world closer. 

 

©DHJ

 

 



[1] Marius Kociejowski, A Quantum of Happiness, Haus, London. 2026, p. 16.

[2] See the disturbing incidents recorded on pages 39 and 40.

[3] Op cit. p. 43.

[4] Ibid. p. 63.

[5] Ibid. p. 71.

[6] Ibid. p. 73.

[7] Ibid. p. 82.

[8] Ibid. p. 58.

[9] Kociejowski reveres Fay Shaw’s Folksongs and Folklore of South Uist (1955), as do I.  It was my friend the composer Ronald Stevenson who first introduced me to Fay Shaw’s work.  He composed his solo piano work, South Uist Folksong Suite, in 1969

[10] Op. cit. p. 121.

[11] Ibid. p. 159.

[12] Ibid. p. 235.